Meanderings/A Celebrated Chef Brings his Fusion Cuisine to Zen Tan

Photo by John Arundel/Local Kicks Upstairs on the 11th floor, above Zen Tan, a romantic rooftop to soak in the city's sights after dinner.

"Iron Chef" Susur Lee and his black-clad staff serve up an eclectic menu with an Asian twist in the chic, candlelit venue of Zen Tan. Opened last week, the Asian fusion restaurant is tucked just off the lobby at the newly renovated, ultra-luxe Donovan House hotel at Thomas Circle.
 
In what used to be the District's red light district, in a town where greasy heavy pub food and dirty martinis are standard after-work fare, operator Brett Blass of Thompson Hotels has set himself to the task of creating a mini-renaissance for the neighborhood, offering a new, hip venue for after-work cocktails and refreshingly offbeat cuisine.

Zen Tan is the latest incarnation for chef-partner Lee. From Hong Kong by way of Toronto and New York, Lee is a refined pony-tail sporting rock star with the brisk manner of a seasoned pro.
 
Lee, 51, was born in Hong Kong, the youngest of six children. The celebrated chef served his culinary apprenticeship at Hong Kong's renowned Peninsula Hotel before immigrating to Canada in 1978, where he worked his way to executive chef status at a number of restaurants. Lee currently owns two restaurants in Toronto, "Madeline's" (formerly "Susur"), and "Lee."  Last year he opened "Shang," located in the Thompson Hotel in New York's Lower East Side.

The internationally acclaimed restaurant Susur opened its doors in 2000, and was designed with aid from his wife, Brenda Bent (Lee's first wife died in the Korean Airlines disaster in 1983).

Photo by Kiki Obadal/Local Kicks Iron Chef Susur Lee and his black-clad staff serve up an eclectic menu with an Asian twist in the chic, candlelit venue of Zen Tan.

Recognized by Gourmet, Food & Wine, among others, "Susur" has been on various international Top 50 lists, including Restaurant's World's 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Instead of offering a traditional menu, a tasting menu is built each day from whatever inspires Lee at the marketplace that morning.

Humble manners and kung-fu star cheeckbones can’t conceal the fact that Lee has won the renowned Iron Chef competition and also tied with Throwdown Star Chef Bobby Flay on another episode. He was the second Canadian chef to appear on the Food Network's Iron Chef America, in a 2006 battle with Iron Chef Bobby Flay, resulting in a tie. The theme ingredient was bacon.

Diners at his new restaurant should be just as thrilled as the Iron Chef judges were, with no bacon this time.

Cocktails are the thing to go for while you wait for your sushi.  Sip on a Mai Thai, a Pear Margarita, or a Red Cherry Mojito and dangle your chopsticks over a bowl of Singapore Slaw—the restaurant’s signature starter.  
 
Entrees include Szechuan duck, Hong Kong style pork loin ribs, and seafood delicacies such as sauteed garlic shrimp and caramelized black cod.  
 
In July, Zen Tan will also be open for lunch and is sure to draw the business crowd.  We noted the presence of Washingtonian Publisher Cathy Merrill Williams and a full house of other young professionals on a busy Thursday evening.  
 
Diners looking for serenity will find it in the curtained back room, with candlelight glowing through a scrim and a hush that promises romance.

Susur Lee in action. Lee is a refined pony-tail sporting rock star with the brisk manner of a seasoned pro.

Nothing was amiss in the gorgeously presented array of dishes, from sushi to appetizers to entrees to desserts.  The wine list is a work in progress, and when it comes available will consist of 50 or so select bottles to pair appropriately with the fresh, clean, Asian-inspired dishes.  
 
General Manager Brett Blass promises more refinements in the next several months as the restaurant grows into its space.  Donovan House Hotel and Zen Tan Restaurant are a part of the “Do Not Disturb” Restaurant Group owned by Thompson Hotels.  

While diners settled in to their singapore slaw downstairs, meanwhile on the roof another party was in full swing.  
 
Donovan House brings a little LA to DC with its rooftop pool and bar offering panoramic vistas of downtown DC.  The golden glow of streetlights and stars provide a quiet, romantic ambience that allows the enjoyment of fresh air above the fray on the rooftop deck while still in the city.
 
Contact the writer at kirstenobadal@hotmail.com.
 
If You're Going...
 
Zen Tan
at the Donovan House hotel
1155 14th Street NW
Washington, DC 20005
(202) 379-7066
http://www.zentanrestaurant.com/